Make sure your supply fitting is attached to the appropriate pipe (hot water for a hot-water dispenser, and cold water for a filter or icemaker).
A T VALVE MOUNTED. This is most likely the simplest approach. If there is a stop valve close by, all you need to do is close it, take out the supply tube, and replace it with a brass T fitting.
QUAD OUTPUT STOP VALVE. If turning off the water to the pipes is not too difficult, a stop valve with two outlets is a good option.
ADD TO THE SUPPLY TUBE. Should your supply tube fail to connect to the water supply, extensions for either 3/8-inch or 1 1/2-inch compression fittings are available for purchase.
Even though saddle T valves are not as strong-flowing or dependable as re-piping, and many plumbers have misgivings about them, they can function satisfactorily when installed properly.
Saddle Ts are most effective on copper or CPVC pipes.
Choose a convenient spot on a pipe, then clean the area where the valve will go of any gunk or corrosion.
Arrange the rubber gasket onto the pipe and make sure the valve’s needle penetrates the gasket.
After attaching a nut and ferrule to the plastic tubing (you can substitute copper for this material), slide the ferrule through the valve’s opening, and tighten the nut.
Once the valve has pierced the pipe and reached the "off" position, turn the handle until it bottoms out.
The push-on fitting with valve pictured above is available for purchase separately or as part of an icemaker hookup kit.
REMOVE A PORTION OF THE PIPE. Remove a portion of pipe to make room for the fitting.
FIT IN WITH THE PIPE. To indicate how deeply the pipe ends should be inserted into the push-on fitting, mark them.
To complete the connection, insert the pipe into one end and then press on the other end using the disconnect clip (removal tool).
FIT THE VALVE IN. Pull up on the sliding clip and press down onto the fitting to secure the valve.
PUT THE TUBING IN. No nuts or ferrules are required to secure the 1/4-inch supply tubing—which could be copper or plastic—into the valve.
However, what about the connections between water lines?
First, an underground main water supply line brings water into your home.
The water heater is connected to the main water supply in the house next.
The water line splits in two at the water heater.
For hot water, one stays connected, while the other splits off for cold water.
Each water appliance is directly connected to the cold water line, which splits off from the water heater.
Conversely, the water heater warms the water in your hot water line before it is connected to your water appliances.
Now let’s explore how I locate my primary water connection.
It is just as crucial to understand where the main water supply in your house is and how to turn it off as it is to understand how to locate and reset an electric circuit breaker.
When a house was constructed, it had to have a main water shut-off valve installed inside.
The majority of emergencies and repairs only require you to close the appropriate INSIDE valve.
LOCATED: MY SUPPLY VALVES WHERE? It is crucial to realize that various plumbing configurations will determine the correct location of the main supply valve.
SETTING UP THE APPROPRIATE VALVE BASEMENTS: Normally, the shut-off valve is situated close to the front foundation wall. The primary water source could enter through the wall or the concrete floor.
Let’s get started on tying off an existing water line.
Run new pipe into the room to connect a new plastic drainpipe to an old steel pipe.
Riser clamps are used to support the pipe above and below so that it won’t fall or sway while you’re working.
Fold up the neoprene sleeves, slide back the banded coupling, and slide a no-hub fitting onto each end of the old pipe.
Make sure the new pipe fits into the tee fitting by cutting it to the precise length and checking to see if you need to loosen the nuts or rotate the fitting slightly.
Turn off the water in order to access existing copper lines. Cut an opening in each pipe with a tubing cutter that is approximately one inch shorter than a tee fitting.
While there are specialized primers and cements designed to join PVC pipe to an old ABS line, doing so may not be allowed by local codes.
Use the same procedures as for installing a new galvanized tee fitting to tie a new copper line into an existing galvanized line.